Flowers & Garden

9/29/2005

"Where did the tulips go?"

A common springtime complaint among gardeners is, "Where did the tulips go?" The lavish display you planted one year looked great, but it might be turning from glory to gloom as the seasons pass.

Many of the largest fluffy parrots and double-flowering May bloomers look their best in the first year, so if you want tulips to come back year after year, select bulbs with that characteristic.

To create an interesting tulip garden, plant a few bulbs for the "wow" effect, then add bulbs that will give you five or six or even more years of pleasure.

The two keys to consistently returning tulips are...[ read more ]







9/25/2005

Flower bulbs can bring fall blooms, too!

As we approach fall in the garden, we often think about planting bulbs such as tulips and daffodils for the coming spring. Less well known, however, are a few bulbs that, when planted in late summer or early fall, will bloom in the autumn, brightening the garden when summer’s bloom is just about over.

Four different fall-blooming bulbs — we will call them bulbs although technically they are either corms or tubers — are most commonly planted in the fall. They are hardy in our area, and if planted in a place where they are happy, they will live for years and even multiply.

The first of these bulbs is the autumn-flowering crocus. These flowers are related closely to the spring-flowering crocus. Blooming in the fall, they send up their foliage in the spring that then withers and dies during the summer. The fall crocuses most commonly come in shades of blue, purple or lavender. The flowers are about 4 inches high and goblet shaped like their spring-flowering cousins.

The most famous of these crocuses is Crocus sativus, the saffron crocus that supplies saffron, the expensive ingredient used in cooking. Saffron comes from the orange-red stigma found in the center of the light bluish-purple flower. To harvest your own saffron, pick the stigma as soon as the flower opens and quickly dry the stigma. Save it in an air-tight container.

There are a number of other crocus species that also may be grown if you can find them at a garden center or in a bulb catalog. One that is often available is Crocus speciosus that varies in color from light violet to lavender and is an unusual color in the fall garden.

To plant fall crocuses, pick a place in the sun with fertile, well-drained soil. Plant the bulbs 2 or 3 inches deep and a few inches apart. To increase the number of plants, dig up and separate the bulbs every three or four years. This may be done in late summer after the bulb’s foliage has died down.

A second flower that looks like a crocus and is even called a golden fall crocus is not a crocus at all but is Sternbergia lutea. This flower is a bright golden-yellow and may be planted in the same manner as the fall crocus. It has two disadvantages for area gardeners, however. It may flower in August or early September and be lost among the summer flowers still in bloom, and it is of marginal hardiness in our area. This means that it should be planted in a sheltered area and covered with mulch for winter protection.

The most spectacular fall bulb is the colchicum. These flowers are much like the crocus in shape, but they are much larger. The colchicums are natives of the Mediterranean climate in Europe and the Middle East, but they are hardy here as long as they are planted in well-drained soil. These bulbs are relatively large and eager to bloom when purchased in late summer or early fall. They are sometimes sold as “miracle bulbs” because they will bloom sitting on a table or window sill without being planted. They are best planted outside, however, where they will flourish for years.

The bulbs should be planted in full sun and work well in front of shrubs or at the front of a flower border. They do well wherever they do not need to be disturbed for several years. If you have a meadow-type lawn where the grass is not cut frequently giving the spring foliage an opportunity to grow, the bulbs do well planted in the grass.

Wherever they are planted, the bulbs should be planted 3 or 4 inches deep. Allow the foliage to die naturally. The leaves of the colchicums are produced in the spring. They are broad, strap-shaped leaves up to a foot long. These leaves die by mid-summer, and there is no evidence of the plant until the flowers suddenly appear in the form of clusters of goblet-shaped flowers about 6 inches high. Different varieties come in shades of pink, lavender and white.

There are a fair number of species and varieties from which to choose. We will mention a few that have special merit. “The Giant” is the colchicum with the largest flower and is perhaps the most common. It has a bluish-pink blossom. The species Colchicum bormmueller is also large and has rose-colored flowers. The most striking colchicums are the double-flowered varieties, often called “water lily colchicums” because they indeed look like water lilies floating on the ground. They come in both white and pink colors. In the right spot, the colchicums grow not only by the bulbs’ dividing but also by seeding themselves over time.

The fourth flowering bulb is quite different from those mentioned so far. It is the hardy cyclamen that grows from underground tubers. These flowers are members of the primrose family and smaller relatives of the cyclamen we often purchase as potted flowers.

There are many species of cyclamen that bloom at various times of the year. They include several species that bloom in the fall and are hardy in our area. All of these plants are small and seldom exceed 6 inches in height and can be used in a rock garden or corner of the garden where they will not be overwhelmed by larger plants. The plants like shade or semishade, and if the soil has some humus in it, they will be happy in the relatively dry shade of a tree. Over time, the tubers spread and form a colony of flowers.

The tubers are planted rather shallowly with only about an inch of soil over the bulb. This means that care must be taken when cultivating the soil or mulching so as to neither dig up the bulb nor smother it.

Mention may be made of two species that are hardy to our area. Cyclamen cilicium has dainty pink flowers on stems up to 6 inches high. Cyclamen hederifolium has leaves that look like those of English ivy and rose-colored flowers. These flowers are not dramatic or showy in the fall garden but planted in the right spot can be a very interesting, unusual addition to your fall plantings.







9/23/2005

Prepare Your Lawn And Flowers For A Beautiful Yard This Fall

Let’s face it, before you turn around it will be fall. To make sure your yard looks as good throughout that season as it does in the summer, here are some tips from professional gardeners:

Special lawn care is particularly important for the fall, to prepare it for the upcoming winter and ensure that it looks good next spring. Start by seeding bare spots on your lawn. Fall is an excellent time to plant grass seed. Make sure to water regularly until the grass sprouts.

Experts say lawns need to be fertilized twice in the fall. The first application of a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer (3-1-2 ratio) should be done in October. The second application should be applied just prior to winter.

Ask your local garden center to recommend the best fertilizer for your grass. There are even special fall or winter varieties. Local professional gardeners also recommend applying agricultural lime to your yard in the fall. This will help correct the pH balance of the soil and help prevent moss and mushrooms from growing.

Mow the lawn up to November. Be sure to rake the clippings. Once that task is completed, don’t forget to keep raking leaves that accumulate on the grass. Experts say they offer no protection to the lawn during the winter months. Excessive leaves in the winter can actually smother the lawn and ruin it for the spring.

There’s plenty to do in the flower beds as well. If you want your garden to shine this fall, plant colorful seasonal flowers such as chrysanthemums (better known as mums), fall pansies and asters, as well as ornamental pepper plants, decorative kale and cabbage, shrubs and bushes.



Check with your online nursery for new varieties available for the fall. While there, check out decorative plant containers to display on front steps, stoops or porches.




New hybrids of pansies make them hearty and are bred to withstand moderate cold. Their varied colors make them perfect for window boxes and beddings. Mums, which come in a wide variety of fall colors, and decorative kale and cabbage look great in the garden or potted on the front stoop.

Don’t overlook shrubs and evergreens. Planting them in the fall allows their roots to become established before winter and will add another dimension to the yard. Make sure they get plenty of water so that the roots will be moist enough to make it through the winter.

Colorful bushes such as hollys, pyracanthas and cotoneasters are good choices and offer decorative berries for your fall or winter table. They also look good in sprays for your front door.

Fall is also the time to plant bulbs that will bloom next spring. Many, like daffodils, irises and crocuses, are usually the first to bloom and provide pretty pastel colors for your garden.

Bulbs must be planted before the first big freeze, so that gives you a lot of time. They should be planted in an area that drains well at least 12 to 14 inches deep. Add organic material. Like all fall plantings, make sure they are watered regularly.

Summer bulbs, such as dahlias and caladium, must be dug up in the fall and stored in peat moss for the winter. Keep them in a cool, dry place.
To prepare your garden for next year, it is important to clean up this year’s flowers. Remove dead flowers and vines. Cut back perennials such as lilies and peonies and put mulch around them.
Fallen leaves should also be removed from the flower beds and your roses should be fertilized and watered well. Remove dead branches from bushes and thin hedges.

Now is also the time to think about starting a compost heap. You can make compost in a simple wire cage or in a special container available at garden centers and the Queens Botanical Garden. Use fallen leaves, grass clippings and fruit and vegetable scraps from the kitchen. Keep the mixture consistently moist. Turn it every two weeks. It takes about six months for the compost to be ready. So if you start this fall, it will be done in time to enrich the soil in the spring.







9/22/2005

Winter Rose Gardening

Winter is a time of rest and purification for your rose garden, but it can be a time of disaster as well if you fail to take the proper precautions.

While "old garden roses" and own-root species are generally hardy enough to make it through the winter unscathed, the more fragile varieties, such as hybrid teas and budded roses, can have a rough time if they aren't well protected.

Preparing for the ravages of winter should start way back during the rose selection process. When you're browsing online and printed catalogs, or admiring the selection in your local home and garden store, be sure to select varieties that are capable of withstanding the coldest winter temperatures that your geographic region is capable of dishing out. If possible, refer to your area "hardiness zone maps" before you buy.

The key to having your roses survive the cold of winter is to force them into total dormancy. Stop applying fertilizer by mid August, and stop dead heading and cutting flowers after the beginning of October. Allow hips to form to further promote dormancy.

In extreme cold areas, your goal is to keep the plant frozen throughout the winter and to prevent them from entering freeze/thaw/freeze cycles repeatedly. With that in mind, don't cover your plants too early. Wait until the first hard frost has struck and the leaves begin to wither and fall. This is a good time to remove ground foliage and other garden debris from around the plants that may contain diseases and insects that will hibernate during the winter and return to feed on your roses in the spring.

Take a few minutes to prune back the taller roses before you begin covering the plants for the winter. Avoid doing a thorough pruning as you'll want to cut back the dead and diseased canes come spring. This is also a good time to tie the canes together to protect them from being damaged by the howling winds of winter.

"Hilling" is a very common winter protection method. You simply pile a loose and well-drained soil or compost around and over the rose bush until you reach a depth of approximately 10-12 inches. Be sure that whatever soil or compost material you use has no excess moisture in it. You want to have only cold and dry soil for a winter covering.

Once the soil mound has frozen completely, you can cover it with leaves or hay, or evergreen branches.

Healthy roses, protected by clean and well-drained soli or compost, have a very good chance of surviving the winter season if you take the time to properly prepare them.

Once you have put your garden to bed for the winter, take some time to clean and sharpen your tools and put your shed or garage back in order so you'll be ready for spring.

As the days grow shorter and the nights grow longer, you'll be ready to sit back in front of the roaring fire and start ordering next year's roses from your favorite catalogs and web sites.