tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-98527782024-03-13T15:48:35.679-04:00Flowers & GardenA weblog for beginning gardeners and flower enthusiasts. Get flower gardening tips, flower pictures and some how to do's from gardeners around the world.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comBlogger158125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-7243844679877476492008-07-06T21:00:00.003-04:002008-07-06T21:07:08.055-04:00'Black Eyed Susans' - Favorite Summer Flowers<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.naturehills.com/images/productImages/black_eyed_susan_goldstrum_1.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://www.naturehills.com/images/productImages/black_eyed_susan_goldstrum_1.jpg" border="0" alt="black eyed susan" /></a><br />The Rudbeckia ‘Goldsturm Black-Eyed Susan’, Rudbeckia fulgida, is an easy to grow perennial with large flower heads of golden yellow and black to brown centers. The flower heads are 3½ to 5 inches across, with a plant spread of 18-24” and a height of 24”. The dark green foliage sits at the bottom on the tall daisy-like flowers and bloom from July to September. Rudbeckia ‘Goldstrum Black Eyed-Susan’ was selected Perennial of the Year in 1999, and one can see why.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">‘Black-Eyed Susans’</span> need to be grown in full sun in somewhat moist soil conditions in a well-drained area. It is great in borders, for cut flowers or for naturalized areas. Rudbeckia attracts butterflies, provides food for birds in the winter and is mildew-resistant.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-44447711048332286692008-02-09T18:19:00.000-05:002008-02-09T18:26:48.219-05:00Coneflowers | Echinacea<a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=YM6zCUXujCs&offerid=90987.627974017&type=10&subid=" rel="nofollow"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 180px;" src="http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aabf_prd/on/demandware.static/Sites-DutchGardens-Site/Sites-DG_Products/default/v1202566182520/Products/31283s.jpg" border="0" alt="Tiki Torch Coneflower" /></a><br />Echinacea or coneflower cultivars have undergone many changes in the past few years. New colors, sizes and flower shapes keep coming, but each new cultivar has to be compared to the original, Magnus. This classic echinacea has large, deep-pink flowers that are long lasting and are produced all summer. If there’s any problem it’s that it grows to a height of about 4 feet.<br /><br />About 20 years ago a dwarf form was found and named Kim’s Knee High. It is the same as Magnus but grows about a foot shorter.<br /><br />Since then, the echinacea family has exploded with new cultivars.<br /><br />For years White Swan has been the best of the white echinacea. This year, new dwarf plant Avalanche looks like a winner. The large white flowers have a dark gold cone and are on stems that are only 15 to 18 inches tall. Avalanche will blossom from July to September.<br /><br />Elton Knight grows into a bushy plant that produces pink flowers reaching up to 6 inches in diameter. The stems are strong enough not to need staking.<br /><br />If your garden doesn’t include echinacea and you have a sunny spot, try one or more -you will not regret it.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-89006875682164411742007-07-31T23:19:00.000-04:002007-07-31T23:25:50.290-04:00Coneflowers (Echinacea) works with bugs<a href="http://members.cox.net/cloudsend/WebPhotos/Perennials/per1g.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://members.cox.net/cloudsend/WebPhotos/Perennials/per1g.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><strong>Coneflowers Good To Grow</strong><br /><br />Everyone is getting excited about echinacea these days – and not just because it's a pretty flower. Recent scientific studies have proven that taking echinacea daily does help us resist the common cold.<br /><br />The usual method is to buy a bottle of a tincture made from the roots, then put a few drops in a glass of water every day. This is said to strengthen the immune system. However, don't do it you have an immune system disease like Lupus.<br /><br />Medicinal properties aside, echinacea is a delight in the garden, easy to grow and tolerant of poor soil. It reaches about a metre high, with flowers that have curious droopy petals. The seedheads, which keep getting bigger and bigger as the summer wears on, look like beehives.<br /><br />(Leave them on the plant all winter, as some birds love the seeds.)<br /><br />The most common kind is Echinacea angustifolia, which has pale pink flowers. However, since echinacea is regarded as a "hottie" plant, growers keep coming out with new varieties – some good, some less so. A couple of years ago, I tried one with orangey flowers called MeadowBrite and it promptly died. This year, though, I picked up a variety called PixieMeadowBrite at Sheridan's. It's a real charmer, and is producing a non-stop parade of peachy orange flowers.<br /><br />Grow echinacea in a sunny spot. It looks best in clumps of at least three. Although often touted as drought-tolerant, I find this plant tends to droop in dry weather, but it recovers nicely after rain. It's also – a big plus in my book – rarely bothered by bugs.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-16010841259158800782007-04-28T19:54:00.000-04:002007-04-28T19:57:37.252-04:00IN YOUR GARDEN: Glorious gladioliWritten by Jenny Watts<br /><br /><strong>Gladiolus</strong> has long been a favorite flower in the florist trade for its stately beauty in arrangements. But it also lends an air of dramatic beauty to the garden.<br /><br />These magnificent flowers originated in South Africa and are members of the iris family. They come in almost every color, except true blue, and stand tall on 3- to 6-foot stems.<br /><br />They grow from a corm, like a bulb, that needs to be planted in the spring for flowers this summer. The funnel-shaped flowers flare out and usually are ruffled at the edges. They open from the bottom up, and all face in one direction. The leaves are shaped like swords and arranged in narrow, upright fans.<br /><br />Glads make excellent cut flowers. Cut the stems when the bottom flower is fully opened. Most of the remaining buds will open, a few at a time, almost to the tip. Pick off the faded flowers and they will last for about 10 days in the vase.<br /> <br />Read the full <a href="http://www.willitsnews.com/features/ci_5766826">article</a>bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1166311547116500552006-12-16T18:22:00.000-05:002006-12-16T18:25:47.126-05:00A little neglect is best for begoniasI've never thought of houseplants as being in or out of fashion, because I grew up with them: angel-wing begonias with silver dots on their dark green leaves, fragrant geraniums that filled the air with lemon or mint, orchids and cacti that obediently bloomed, under my grandmother's fierce green thumb.<br /><br />Like dogs, they accompanied me through my childhood, on through college and to every apartment or house I ever occupied.<br />Through the years, the role of houseplants changed. Remember the 1970s, when living rooms were full of avocado trees planted from pits, shower curtain rods were for ferns, and orchids and marijuana grew under lights in the attic? It was actually a relief, in the 1990s, to walk into one of those minimalist rooms with no plants, except for say, one long tropical leaf set in a tall vase.<br />Some of us, though, held onto our potted friends, oblivious to which exotic species was in or out. But now, it's fashionable to be nesting again, especially with begonias.<br /><br />Read the full article <a href="http://www.indystar.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20061216/LIVING02/612160314/1084/LIVING02">here</a>bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1160165851404391612006-10-06T16:15:00.000-04:002006-10-06T16:17:31.420-04:00Garden workshops like Tupperware parties for the green-thumb setLisa Ziegler stands in front of them to explain and demonstrate the efficient and easy use of several little-known gardening tools and products. For instance, there's the dibber, a T-shaped aluminum planting hand tool that's perfect for small bulbs such as crocus, she says. There's also a multi-use trowel that digs planting holes, removes weeds and smoothes soil.<br /><br />She also peppers her program with educational tidbits. She advises the women to consult their local Virginia Cooperative Extension office when they have plant questions, and encourages them to adopt gardening habits that benefit the environment and health of the Chesapeake Bay.<br /><br />"This is `edu-tainment,'" she tells the women at Bly's gathering. "Whether you buy or not, you take something away from this workshop."<br /><br />She started The Gardener's Workshop home parties in 2005, and conducts them with the help of trained "garden steward consultants" who earn commission, bonuses and rebates based on sales. Hostesses earn free and discounted products according to workshop sales. Family members Sara Mason and Suzanne Frye help Ziegler with business needs, such as product photography and catalog layout.<br /><br />Read the <a href="http://www.fortwayne.com/mld/newssentinel/living/15684194.htm">full article</a>bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1155457905385541442006-08-13T04:26:00.000-04:002006-08-13T04:31:45.400-04:00Fast-food take on landscapes appetizingIn the past two weeks I have traveled from the Deep South to northern Michigan, and from West Texas through New Mexico and Colorado to South Dakota. Believe me, the natural gardening climate is vastly different in every place.<br /><br />Still, there are plants that each place holds in common - oft-used, dependable "garden backbone" plants such as <strong>junipers</strong>, <strong>iris</strong>, <strong>daylilies</strong>, <strong>shrub roses</strong>, <strong>pines</strong>, <strong>hollies</strong>, <strong>dwarf arborvitae</strong>, <strong>zinnias and ornamental grasses</strong>. In the South there are lots of nandina, crape myrtles and lantana. All grow well regardless of the care they receive.<br /><br /><strong>OLD FOUNDATIONS</strong><br /><br />For decades, the general landscape design has hugged the foundation of the house. It started with garden club ladies working with Extension horticulturists and nurserymen, giving nongardeners some easy landscaping ideas that looked good and were fairly low maintenance.<br /><br />Although these "cookie cutter" designs did neaten and provide uniformity to neighborhoods, they became to be seen as the only acceptable styles.<br /><br />But as the fast food generation settles down, more of us are puttering in the garden. We need updated tips on what works and what doesn't.<br /><br />And guess where the major patterns for flower and shrub arrangement are most visible?<br /><br />Fast food restaurants.<br /><br />Believe it or not, the most visible, nationally uniform new landscape style - called New American by the American Horticulture Society - is more likely to show up in places where year-round, nonstop good looks and low maintenance are most needed.<br /><br />This style is neither new nor entirely American. But it was not mainstream here until fairly recently. Back in 1986, when Terryl and I attended the opening of the AHS New American Style demonstration garden in Washington, D.C., it was not mainstream; now it is on every commercial street corner, constantly providing visual cues that flower gardening is here to stay.<br /><br /><strong>TRY IT, YOU'LL LIKE IT</strong><br /><br />What are the elements? Start with carving a nice-size bed in the front yard, perhaps along one side of the yard and extending partways across the front of the property along the street. Add one or two hardy small trees, coupled with a mix of boldly shaped evergreen shrubs. Tie them all together with mulch or groundcover, then plop in a few groups of perennials and an ornamental grass. Add annuals seasonally, and keep it edged neatly.<br /><br />This can be done in a weekend. One gardener at a time, the country is changing to year-round good looks without the maintenance - or the rules - of our parents' generation.<br /><br />If you want a list of dependable "front yard" landscape plants, shoot me an e-mail and I'll paste it right back.<br /><br /><strong>GARDEN TIPS</strong><br /><br />It's not the "last call" for planting summer-loving veggies (tomatoes, peppers and the like), but those set out now still have time to produce before fall without your having to cover them up.<br /><br />Yellow jacket wasps make paper nests in underground chambers, and get very busy in late summer and fall. If you have a nest entry hidden in monkey grass or rocks, control them now before they really get bad.<br /><br />Annual flowers that go to seed do not flower as well. Occasionally cut off faded flowers to keep them productive. Leggy zinnias and overgrown lantana can be pruned to make them busy again.<br /><br />Author:<a href="http://www.clarionledger.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20060811/COL0702/608110321/1194/FEAT03">Felder Rushing</a>bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1155314658126771322006-08-11T12:40:00.000-04:002006-08-11T12:44:18.303-04:00Primer on plant problems, how to treat them! Part TWO<strong>-BACTERIAL BLIGHT</strong><br /><br /><em>Symptoms:</em> Small, water-soaked spots appear on vegetable leaves. The spots eventually get bigger and turn brown. The leaves either turn tallow and die slowly, or turn brown and rapidly fall off. In cool weather yellow halos may border the infected spots. Sometimes lone, reddish lesions show up on the stems as well.<br /><br /><em>Cause:</em> Xanthomonas and pseudomonas bacteria.<br /><br /><em>Remedy:</em> Like so many of the diseases we've talked about so far, this one also thrives (and spreads) in wet conditions, so minimize overhead watering and never work in a wet garden patch. Buy certified disease-free seed and use blight resistant varieties when available. Rotating crops also helps, and by rotating I mean keeping the same crops out of the soil where they grew previously for at least two years. Be sure and clean up plant debris at the end of the season. Unfortunately, there are no chemical controls for bacterial blight.<br /><br /><strong>-CLUBROOT</strong><br /><br /><em>Symptoms:</em> Abnormal enlargement and distortion of roots of plants in the crucifer family. Cabbage and Brussels sprouts are most susceptible, followed by broccoli, cauliflower, etc. Lowest leaves may turn yellow and drop off. Yield is usually greatly reduced, but in very favorable soil conditions the symptoms may not even be noticed until the plants are pulled up and the roots examined after harvest.<br /><br /><em>Cause:</em> Soil borne Plasmodiophora brassicae fungus.<br /><br /><em>Remedy:</em> Keep soil beds well drained by adding lots of organic matter since clubroot thrives in soils that are cool, wet, and heavy. I always make sure that the soil pH is above 7.2 for these crops as well, since a high pH has been shown to inhibit clubroot. Long crop rotations (up to seven years) works well, though it is often not practical nor possible.<br /><br /><strong>-BLACKSPOT</strong><br /><br />Symptoms: Rose leaves develop circular black spots up to a half-inch in diameter. Leaves turn yellow and drop off. The flowers themselves are usually not affected.<br /><br /><em>Cause:</em> Diplocarpon rosae fungus.<br /><br /><em>Remedy:</em> Blackspot is usually not a fatal disease, but affected plants often try to grow replacement foliage late in the season and that new growth may suffer cold damage when frost hits. The best way to minimize blackspot is to plant resistant varieties and avoid overhead watering because the disease thrives on wet foliage. Cut the bushes back hard in the spring to remove any canes that may have blackspot fungus on them and to improve air circulation. Remove old mulches and apply a thick new mulch around each bush after you give the roses their first feeding this will serve as a barrier between any blackspot fungus on the ground and the newly developing rose leaves. I've had excellent results with controlling and curing blackspot (seemingly overnight) with the "Fermented Salmon" liquid foliar spray. No one seems to be able to explain to me how or why it works so well in controlling this disease, but have my own theory as to why that I'm currently experimenting with (results to be published later!). Otherwise, there are many reliable, commercially available rose sprays that contain various fungicide ingredients if you don't mind using these products in your garden. The key is vigilant spraying throughout the growing season.<br /><br /><strong>-GRAY MOLD</strong><br /><br /><em>Symptoms:</em> Fruit, vegetables and flowers are all affected. Leaves, flowers and fruit (green or ripe) especially near the soil in the densest area of the leaf canopy turn light brown and develop a gray fuzzy covering. Gray mold will often sprout on soft ripe fruits like strawberries and raspberries after they have been picked.<br /><br /><em>Cause:</em> Botrytis cinerea fungus.<br /><br /><em>Remedy:</em> Sanitation is more important than anything in reducing the chances of gray mold from developing. As you walk around the flower garden, the vegetable patch, the fruit trees, pick and destroy all fading flowers and blighted foliage, remove and destroy and diseased leaves, blossoms or fallen fruits. It is also important to space your plants far enough apart so that sunshine and air can penetrate the entire plant. Harvest fruits in advance of rainy, humid and cool conditions whenever possible. Use mulches like pine needles in strawberry beds to keep the fruit off the ground. Fungicides like Captan or chlorothalonil work well to eliminate gray mold.<br /><br />There are many more possible plant disease that can affect your garden such as Fusarium and Verticillium wilt, early and late blights, scab, leaf curl, brown rot, apple scab, fire blight, cucumber mosaic and so on. A good deal of plant diseases can be avoided by simply using good cultural practices, that is, avoiding over-head watering, providing plenty of air circulation between plants (that means dividing perennials on a regular basis!), maintaining a good healthy soil structure with lots of organic matter, regular weeding and keeping a spotless sanitary garden by quickly removing any spent or diseased plant tissue.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1151753748829177212006-07-01T07:33:00.000-04:002006-07-01T07:37:24.703-04:00July's hot tips on maintaining flower garden<strong>Planting</strong><br /><br />* If you are lacking summer color, it's not too late to set out these plants: ageratum, begonias, celosia, chrysanthemums, coreopsis, gazanias, gloriosa daisies, impatiens, marigolds, petunias, portulaca, sea lavender, sweet alyssum, zinnias.<br /><br /> <br />* Start seeds of campanulas, columbine, coreopsis, delphiniums, forget-me-nots, and foxgloves to plant out in September.<br /><br />* July is the month to start new plants from herbaceous perennials. Cut five-inch stems and remove flowers of carnations, geraniums, marguerites, Shasta daisies, penstemons and verbenas. Root them in damp perlite.<br /><br />* At the end of the month divide overcrowded clumps of iris and spring-flowering bulbs. Replant into beds prepared by deeply digging in organic amendments.<br /><br /><strong>Soil management</strong><br /><br />* July and August are the best months to solarize your garden soil to get rid of weed seeds, insect pests, and diseases. For information on soil solarization, visit the Master Gardener Web site at: <a href="http://groups.ucanr.org/mgnapa/index.cfm">http://groups.ucanr.org/mgnapa/index.cfm</a>.<br /><br />* Renew the mulch around plants to keep them cool and conserve moisture.<br /><br />* Continue to monitor the soil moisture and check the drip system for clogged sprinklers and emitters.<br /><br /><strong>Maintenance</strong><br /><br />* Stop pruning these spring-blooming plants now: vines and trees such as azaleas, dogwood, redbud, spirea, forsythia, flowering quince, wisteria and some roses shouldn't be heavily pruned unless they are dormant. Excessive pruning from midsummer into fall will reduce next year's blooms. However, trimming a gangly shoot here and there to maintain the proper shape is fine.<br /><br />* Encourage more blooms by deadheading (snapping off spent flowers) the annuals and pinching back the tips of chrysanthemums, fuchsias and geraniums.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1151134628092386912006-06-24T03:35:00.000-04:002006-06-24T03:37:08.106-04:00Primer on plant problems, how to treat them! Part OneYour garden is off to a great start this season and everything's looking great, you don't have a care in the world and then: Whack. All of a sudden your prize tomato plants are turning wicked colors of yellow or brown, perhaps dropping their leaves as we<br /><br /><strong>- DAMPING OFF</strong><br /><br /><em>Symptoms:</em> Very young (newly seeded) flower and vegetable seedlings either fail to come up or rot off at soil level soon after the emerge.<br /><br /><em>Cause:</em> A variety of bad fungi (rhizoctona, fusarium, Phytophthora and a few others) that live in the upper layers of seed-starting (or garden soil) bed.<br /><br /><em>Remedy:</em> I think most gardeners know that using a sterilized potting mixture when planting seeds indoors is a fail-proof method in avoiding this type of disease problem, but what about outside in the open soil? There are a few things you can do, such as building raised beds to ensure good drainage (since these disease fungi are activated by damp soil). Also, compost has scientifically proven disease-fighting power that, when used as a seedbed material, drastically eliminates any chance of seedlings damping off. Just be sure to lay down about a one-inch layer over the bed and don't mix it into the soil. Plant your seed right on top of the mix. I also use sterilized soil-less mixtures to cover the seeds after planting to insure that they will sprout in a near-sterile environment.<br /><br /><strong>-POWDERY MILDEW</strong><br /><br /><em>Symptoms:</em> Whitish-gray powdery coating on leaves, buds, and often blossoms of vegetables (cucumbers are notorious), and flowers (roses, lilacs and phlox). In severe cases, leaves may turn yellow and become deformed and buds may fail to open.<br /><br /><em>Cause:</em> Spores of bad fungi (erysiphe, sphaerotheca to name a few) that are spread by wind and encouraged by hot, dry days and cool nights .<br /><br /><em>Remedy:</em> You can save yourself plenty of headaches by choosing plant varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew if they are available. That not always being the case, you'll need to take other action. It actually thrives in dry conitions. A neat and easy trick is to actually spray the plants with a strong spray of water during the early stages of powdery mildew. This tactic alone might be enough to thwart an infection, as you will literally knock the disease spores off the plant. If that doesn't work, a great homemade solution to combat powdery mildew can be made by mixing one tablespoon of baking soda, one tablespoon of vegetable oil, and a single drop of dishwashing soap in one-gallon of water. Shake the mixture well and apply with a pump sprayer on the plants until they are saturated and dripping. This is a mixture that I'll use on vegetable crops, but often flowers and shrubs need stronger fungicide. Products like Immunox and Daconil work very well.<br /><br /><strong>- ANTHRACNOSE</strong><br /><br /><em>Symptoms:</em> Sunken spots (up to a half-inch in diameter) appear on the skin of ripe tomatoes affected by this disease. The center of the spots usually darkens and forms concentric rings.<br /><br />Cause: Colletotrichum coccodes fungus.<br /><br /><em>Remedy:</em> Anthracnose thrives in warm, wet conditions, so try and avoid overhead irrigation where possible. To prevent spreading the disease, do not work in the garden when plants are wet. Be sure to stake, trellis, or cage your tomato plants so that the fruit is kept away from the soil surface. Make sure to harvest tomatoes as soon as they are ripe and when you find an anthracnose-infected tomato (it's inedible by the way), be sure they are tossed into the garbage pail (do not compost).<br /><br /><strong>-RUST</strong><br /><br /><em>Symptoms:</em> Orange-yellow, brown, or purple pustules appear on the underside of leaves. Affects many types of plants, but beans, roses, geraniums, hollyhocks and snapdragons seem to catch the worst cases of rust. Eventually, the upper leaf surface becomes mottled with yellow patches, and the leaves shrivel and fall off. Severely infected plants become stunted and may die.<br /><br /><em>Cause:</em> Many species of fungi that belong to the Uredinales order.<br /><br /><em>Remedy:</em> This is a fungus that thrives in warm, wet conditions, so again, avoid overhead irrigation in favor of drip irrigation wherever you can. Water in the morning rather then sending the plants into the evening with wet foliage. Allow plenty of room for air to circulate and pluck any infected leaves as soon as you see them. Strict garden sanitation is important in controlling this disease. There are several chemical fungicide products to use in controlling rust, depending on the type of plant.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1144265368298015092006-04-05T15:26:00.000-04:002006-04-05T15:29:28.316-04:00What do those numbers on fertilizer bags actually mean?Whenever you see a fertilizer product, it will have three numbers prominently listed on the package, usually on the front. These numbers are very important and tell a great deal about what this fertilizer will do.<br /><br />Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N, P, K) are what the numbers refer to. They are always listed in this order. It is the percentage within that package of each component.<br /><br />For example, a common type of all-purpose fertilizer is referred to as 10-10-10. This is a balanced blend of equal portions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. If you purchased a 50-pound bag, five pounds (or 10 percent) would be nitrogen, five pounds would be phosphorus and five pounds would be potassium. The remaining 70 percent is simply filler, or inert ingredients, which are there mostly to help disperse the chemicals.<br /><br />A common way of describing the purpose behind each chemical is to think "up, down and all around."<br /><br />Applying this simple phrase will help you remember that nitrogen, the first chemical listed, helps with plant growth above ground. Nitrogen promotes the green leafy growth of foliage and provides the necessary ingredients to produce lush green lawns. Lawn fertilizers frequently have a high first number for this purpose. <br /><br />Phosphorus, the middle number, is very effective at establishing growth below ground, in the form of healthy root systems. It is also the component most responsible for flower blooms and fruit production. You'll notice that fertilizers designed for flower production, or starter-type fertilizers for your lawn, have a high middle number.<br /><br />Potassium, the last number listed, is considered important for overall plant health. This is primarily due to its ability to help build strong cells within the plant tissue. In turn, the plants withstand various stresses, such as heat, cold, pests and diseases. For example, winterizer fertilizers will have a high component of potassium.<br /><br />When shopping for fertilizers, be mindful of their intended use. Fertilizers that have equal numbers can generally be used as an all-purpose fertilizer. If you had only one product to work with, 10-10-10 would be my recommendation.<br /><br />To promote good fruit or flower production, look for a middle number that is higher than the first. Otherwise, your plants will be stimulated to put out lots of nice green foliage, often at the expense of fruit or flower production. Instead, you want the energy and nutrition of the plant to go towards the desired result _ flowers or fruit _ so a higher middle number is a more appropriate choice.<br /><br />To toughen up your plants or lawn for environmental stresses, then you'll want a fertilizer that promotes the last number, possibly as well as a high middle number. A high first number in this case may not be appropriate because you are not likely to be promoting new lush foliage when at the same time putting plants or turf to bed for the winter. Instead, your goal should be to promote cell structure and strong roots which continue to grow through winter.<br /><br />Finally, whenever you apply fertilizers, don't assume that more is better. You can burn plants by over fertilizing, and damage the surrounding soil as well. Instead, err on the side of less is better. If your soil is rich in organic matter, it should have all the nutrition plants need.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1143267985287642162006-03-25T01:22:00.000-05:002006-03-31T16:46:18.713-05:00Get ready for gardeningDuring the winter months, hours of dreaming over garden catalogues are interspersed with pruning and making sure mulch is spread to nourish the plants. <br /><br />Now, at the end of March, with rain and windy days transformed to warmth and sunshine, we are back at the start of another gardening year.<br /><br />Where to begin?<br />Here are some tips on what needs to be done to get your garden off to a good start:<br /><br /><strong>Perennial beds</strong><br><br />Perennials flowers such as poppies, delphinium, hostas, astilbes and peonies are all well out of the ground. These are the staples of many flower gardens. They come back year after year and the initial investment is small compared to their contribution to the garden.<br /><br />If you are starting a perennial bed, remember that the soil should be well prepared to a depth of one foot with lots of well rotted manure or organic matter added. <br />Be sure all the weed material is removed from the ground before you plant.<br />Divide perennials that have overgrown their places. Generally, after four years a perennial may need dividing.<br /><br />If you are replanting a part of a divided plant in the same spot, be sure to add some compost to the soil. It will need the nourishment.<br />Swap some of your divided perennials with gardening friends - this is a time-honoured tradition among gardeners.<br />Read up on your plants before you divide them. Peonies, for example, dislike being moved and may not bloom for a year or two after being divided. <br />If you have a recently established perennial bed and your plants don't need dividing, just remove weeds carefully and add compost or mulch.<br /> <br /><strong>Vegetable beds</strong><br />Dig over your vegetable garden now. The weeds haven't had a chance to take hold and the soil is moist. Add well rotted manure or composted organic matter to your garden.<br /><br />Dig over the ground so that compost is mixed to a depth of one foot. If it is left on the surface, root vegetables don't get nutrients where they need them most.<br />Dolomite lime can be added lightly.<br />Build raised garden beds if you want to enhance your vegetable garden. These offer warmer soil and earlier crops - and they are also easier to work with.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1140865333657673642006-02-25T05:59:00.000-05:002006-02-25T06:02:13.760-05:00Planning and Laying Out a Flower GardenA flower garden adds a great deal of variety and beauty to the landscape. Many people find that laying out flower gardens is a very rewarding task. And, while it is possible to create a very attractive flower garden without planning it out first, it is much more efficient, in the way of saving time and money, to make a plan for what you would like in your flower garden, and to have an idea of where you might like some of the different flowers. Then when you are ready to lay the garden out, you have a pretty good idea of what to do, and you are not bothered with having to re-arrange things to account for something that you may not have realized before.<br /><br />The first order of business to determine when planning out your flower garden is how many annuals and how many perennials you want. Annuals last only one growing season, and therefore have to be replanted each year. Perennials appear yearly on their own. If you have all annuals, you can change your garden layout as you wish every year, and with perennials you have the same layout (unless you wish to transplant all of your flowers). However, it is possible to have a combination of the two, keeping the perennials where they are each year and varying the charm of the flower garden with a few different annuals in different placement.<br /><br />Next, you should determine where you will likely place your flowers, taking into consideration the comparative heights of the plants, what time of the year they bloom, and what colors you will use. These things all contribute to an aesthetically pleasing look to your flower garden — one that implies order and beauty rather than looking ill-planned with some plants looking wildly out of place. Also to take into consideration when planning your flower garden: climate and sun exposure. Make sure that all of the plant you choose for your garden will flourish in your region, and that your garden is placed in a location that will allow the flowers to receive a proper amount of light.<br /><br />After you have determined what will go in your garden, it is time to prepare the flowerbed. You should mark of the dimensions of your proposed garden carefully. Using a garden hose to mark the boundaries is advisable, as it is heavy and will stay in place, but it also provides the flexibility needed to tweak the proposed shape of your garden. After you have determined on your boundaries, you need to strip the enclosed area down to the topsoil. This can be done using a shovel for smaller gardens and a sod cutter for the larger sections.<br /><br />After getting down to the topsoil, you should loosen the dirt by prying up a section with a shovel and then turning over the dirt. This loosens the soil and provides a good place for flower roots to establish themselves. You can make improvements to the soil but adding organic materials such as peat moss, mulch, compost, or manure. You should probably also roto-till the area to better mix the soil amendments in with the original soil. Next, use a rake to smooth out the soil without packing it down. Create your border with plastic edging, concrete, stones, or by digging around the edges, angling the soil down and creating a gap between flower garden and lawn.<br /><br />After you have prepared the bed for the garden, acquire the flowers you would like to use. Seeds are less expensive, but you will not be able to see the final result until they spring up. If you purchase flowers in containers, set the containers, with their plants, in the places in the garden that they will inhabit. Then you can get an idea of what the garden will look like. If you need to move the flowers around for greater attractiveness, it is simply a matter of moving the pot around until the garden looks as you wish it to. After you have settled that everything is in place, begin removing the flowers from their containers and placing them in the ground, beginning from the back and working up toward the front.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1140864828190846762006-02-25T05:47:00.000-05:002006-02-25T05:53:48.543-05:00A GARDEN FOR THE WHOLE FAMILYYou can have the most elaborated back yard from the entire neighborhood, but if it isn't functional you have built it in vain. We all want to have beautiful and flourishing gardens, but when we have a family, we must also take into consideration the needs of the other members of it. Divide the space of your yard in two or three visual spaces, one for play and relaxation, one for gardening and maybe one for pets.<br /><br />An open space, covered by lawn is ideal for your children. Here you can install a table for open air lunches or for a romantic summer evening dinner.<br />Do you have a fireplace? Keep a portion of your garden especially for depositing fire woods, but make sure it is at a considerable distance from the house or animals that can cause damage.<br /><br />How about pets? You can build for these little members of your family special spaces, in which they can play and exercise. Before you plant bushes and ornamental plants, surround the pet space. Cats and dogs tend to be attracted exactly by the things we try to keep them away from.<br />Keep the by-passers' eyes away from your personal life. Before planning the scenery, you must have in sight a place for the garbage cans. It wouldn't be very nice to have a wonderful garden right next to the garbage cans. These can be efficiently hidden in some kind of surrounded space, decorated on the sides with life fence.<br /> <br />Functionality is an important factor in your garden, so you have to think about children, little pets and family assets before you plant anything. Save a portion of the yard especially for you, in which you can plant whatever you want and leave for the others some space to breathe freely.<br /><br />You will find it more satisfying this way, once the whole family is happy with your garden and they might even bring their personal ideas for it. It is important that personal space is respected and that is why the garden must not be very wide, taking up all available space. Build from time to time a pathway or some benches where you can just relax and admire your work.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1140000834523941972006-02-15T05:49:00.000-05:002006-02-15T05:53:54.846-05:00Lilies for the gardenLilies are one of the most striking and beautiful plants in the garden, and most gardeners will work with these beautiful plants at least once or twice in their lives. Lilies can add beauty and drama to any garden, and they are very popular flowers for indoor display as well. Lilies are popular in many contexts, from giving a beautiful contrast to a winter rock garden, to providing a beautiful accent to surrounding shrubs and trees. <br /><br />No matter how the lily is displayed, and whether it is enjoyed indoors or out, there are some important things to know about these wonderful plants. This article focuses on some of the most frequently asked questions about choosing, planting, caring for and enjoying lilies.<br /><br /><strong>When should I plant my lilies?</strong><br><br />The best time to plant lilies is in either the spring or fall of the year. Regardless of the time of year, however, it is important to get the bulbs in the ground as soon as possible after purchasing them. Unlike many other types of bulbs, lily bulbs do not store well.<br /><br />What is the difference between a daylily and a garden lily?<br />The plant known to gardeners as the garden lily is grown from a bulb, but the plant known as the daylily actually grows from a corm. In addition, the daylily contains many leaves that grow from the corm, but the garden lily contains only one shoot that contains leaves. That shoot grows directly from the bulb.<br /><br /><strong>How deep should lily bulbs be planted?</strong><br><br />The general rule of thumb for many types of bulbs, including lily bulbs, is to plant them three times as deep as the bulbs are wide. For instance, a two inch wide lily bulb would be planted to a depth of six inches In addition, lilies should be planted in groups for the best effect when they bloom. It is a good idea to dig a hole to the proper depth, then plant several bulbs together in that hole.<br /><br /><strong>How do I propagate lilies?</strong><br><br />Garden lilies are best propagated through breaking off a few of their scales in the spring or fall and planting them approximately one inch deep. Daylilies can be propagated by dividing the corms and planting them. In addition, some lilies will produce bulbils, which may appear to be black or dark green seeds. These bulbils are found at the point at which the lily leaf meets the stem. Even though these bulbils are not really seeds, they can be planted, and they will emerge within two or three years of planting.<br /><br />Should I cut back my lily after it has finished blooming?<br />After the lily has bloomed, it is best to remove only the stem itself. That is because garden lilies will continue to feed off their foliage, and lilies that are left to die off naturally tend to grow better the next year. On the other hand, daylilies usually bloom for longer periods of time. The blooming season of daylilies can be extended if the gardener deadheads the blooms and cuts back the stems. After the blooming season is over, the foliage on the daylily should be allowed to die back naturally.<br /><br /><strong>Can Easter lilies be planted outside?</strong><br />Many people are interested in planting their Easter lilies outside, and it is fine to attempt that. The main problem with Easter lilies is that they do not bloom naturally at Easter time. Easter lilies are actually forced to bloom at that time of year by the florist. This forced blooming can make it harder for the lily to grow properly once it is transplanted.<br /><br />If you plan to transplant your Easter lily after you have enjoyed it outside, the following steps will help increase your chances of its survival.<br /> Plant the lily in a sunny spot using well drained soil<br /> Use a good, high quality planting mix <br /> Plant the bulbs three inches under the surface of the soil and also place an additional three inches of soil on the top<br /> Allow enough space for the lily to spread its roots<br /> Water the newly transplanted lily thoroughlybloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1139416261663890102006-02-08T11:26:00.000-05:002006-02-08T11:31:02.076-05:00Using fungicides to prevent and treat common plant and flower diseasesGardening is a wonderful, relaxing hobby for many people, and it continues to top surveys of favorite leisure activities. Most of the time a garden provides a soothing, relaxing environment, and healthy, attractive plants. As with any living thing, however, flowers and plants are prone to a number of diseases and pest infestations. It is important to use commercial fungicides properly to banish disease from your garden.<br /><br />Simply paying attention to the condition of the plants in your garden may be the best way to keep disease outbreaks at bay. After you have been gardening for awhile, you will develop a feel for what is normal, and that will make it much easier to spot any outbreaks before they spread throughout the garden.<br /><br />In addition, simply keeping the plants in top condition is a great way to prevent disease. Just as healthier people are better able to fight off infection, so too are healthier plants. The better the condition of your plants, the more they will be able to fight off disease.<br /><br />Even the healthiest plants, however, sometimes succumb to disease, so it is important to be on the lookout for the first signs of problems so that they can be treated promptly. Symptoms like holes in the leaves, black spots, white spots and wounded stems can be signs of trouble. If you notice any of these conditions, it is important to diagnose and treat the affected plants as quickly as possible. This is because an outbreak of disease, or a pest infestation, can quickly spread throughout the garden.<br /><br />Many of the most common diseases of flowers and plants are fungal diseases, and these diseases are best treated with a high quality synthetic fungicide. There are a great many fungicides on the market, and we are providing a list of some of the most popular and well known fungicides. If you are unsure of the nature of your plant disease, it is important to seek the help of the staff at your local garden center, or consult with a more experienced gardener.<br /><br />It is important to note that the fungicide Chlorothalonil slowly dissipates with time, but the other fungicides on this list are systemic. Their systemic nature means that once they are applied to the plant, they are absorbed into the foliage and the root system. A systemic fungicide works to prevent and cure infection from within the plant itself. Because of this property, it is important never to use a systemic fungicide on plants intended for food.<br /><br />Some of the most commonly used fungicides are:<br /><br /><strong>Chlorothalonil</strong> <em>(Daconil)</em> – Chlorothalonil is a multipurpose fungicide with is used to prevent and treat common fungal diseases which affect lawns, fruits, vegetables as well as many ornamental and flowering plants.<br /><br /><strong>Theiophanate-methyl</strong> – Thelophanate-methyl is a systemic fungicide that is effective in treating many common plant diseases, including powdery mildew and black spot.<br /><br /><strong>Triadiemefon</strong> <em>(Bayleton)</em> – Triadiemefon is a systemic fungicide which is usually used to prevent and treat powdery mildew and rust. It is also effective against some lawn diseases.<br /><br /><strong>Triforine</strong> <em>(Funginex)</em> – Triforine is a systemic fungicide used to treat and prevent common fungal diseases such as rust, black spot and powdery mildew. It has also proven effective against some other diseases of both flowering and non-flowering plants.<br /><br />When working with any chemical, including systemic and non-systemic fungicides, it is vital to follow the direction carefully and to use the minimum effective amount. Pay particular attention to any warnings on the label, and dispose of any unused product carefully. It is important to wear protective clothing, such as a breathing mask, goggles and gloves for protection while applying any fungicide.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1139062449802152752006-02-04T09:11:00.000-05:002006-02-04T09:14:21.910-05:00The importance of proper soil chemistry to a healthy gardenTrying to grow healthy, vibrant flowers without proper soil chemistry is definitely a case of putting the cart before the horse. Good soil is the cornerstone of successful gardening, and it is important to make sure that your soil will meet the needs of your plants before the first seed is planted.<br /><br />While soil chemistry is important no matter what types of plants or flowers you grow, it is particularly critical when it comes to working with bulbs, perennials or other plants that remain in the ground for more than one season. The reason is that the chemistry of the soil can change from year to year. <br /><br />Therefore, if a formerly well blooming patch of the garden is looking a bit haggard, the first place to look is at the condition of the soil. Erosion, overuse of pesticides and fertilizers and a number of other factors can impact the quality of the soil, so it is important to test the soil if you suspect a problem.<br /><br />Of course the soil should be tested anytime a new flower bed is prepared as well. It would be a mistake to assume that the soil chemistry is the same everywhere on your property, since the makeup of different patches of soil can be markedly different, due to past use, chemicals or residue in the ground, etc.<br /><br />It is a good idea to have a thorough soil analysis done prior to planting a bed of flowers. Most major cities have several laboratories that do soil testing, so be sure to contact such a lab to have the soil analyzed for pH level, and for levels of important plant nutrients. If you are unsure where to get the soil tested, be sure to ask the staff at your local nursery or garden center for a recommendation.<br /><br />After the present condition of the soil is known, you will be in a much better position to know how to amend the soil and make the changes that are needed. Once you know the pH level, the level of organic material in the soil, the amount of clay, amount of sand, etc., you will be able to choose the right additives to provide your plants with what they need to thrive.<br /><br />The pH level of the soil can be a particularly critical factor when deciding what types of plants will work best. Most varieties of annuals, perennials and bulbs will grow well in a wide range of soil pH, but some plants have specific needs, and prefer soils that are either very alkaline or very acidic. If your pH range is outside the norm, or if it needs to be amended, there are a number of ways to accomplish this goal. For instance, limestone can be used to make acidic soil more alkaline, while sulfur is often used to make very alkaline soil more acidic. A pH level that is out of balance can also be helped by adding humus. This rich soil can be created at home by using a compost bin, or it can be purchased ready made from a garden center or nursery.<br /><br />After you know the baseline content of your flower bed, it will be easier to track chemistry changes from year to year, and to make amendments as needed. The more you know about the quality of your soil, the more confident you can be that the plants you buy will thrive in your home garden.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1139050914268919142006-02-04T05:58:00.000-05:002006-02-04T06:01:59.676-05:00The first flowers of springOne of the most thrilling sights for any gardener, from the newest to the most experienced, is the first <a href="http://www.flowers-and-garden.com/spring-flowers.php">spring flowers</a> peeking up through the last snow of winter. Spring flowers have long been seen as a sign of new life, and gardeners certainly enjoy seeing these beautiful harbingers of warmer weather.<br /><br />Whether it is the tiny, delicate blossoms of the <strong>snowdrop</strong>, the delicate petals of the econite or the subtle beauty of the Irish reticulate, it is hard to beat the beauty of spring flowers. These first delicate blossoms of spring are a sign that the long days of winter are finally over, and that it is time to look forward to warmer weather. Even the most jaded gardeners continue to be excited by the sight of the earliest blossoms making their way through the last snow of winter.<br /><br />The well named snowdrop is one of the most beloved, and most popular types of flowers for early spring. These delicate blossoms are breathtaking to behold. The common snowdrop, scientific name Galanthus nivalis, features small, delicate blossoms, while the <strong>giant snowdrop</strong>, known to scientists as the Galanthus elwesil, features striking large early spring blooms.<br /><br />The <strong>Iris reticulate</strong> is another favorite early spring bloom. This bulb is one of the most striking flowers in the world of gardening, and it is highly prized for its beauty. The Iris reticulate originally came from the high mountain areas of Western Asia, and it does well in cold climates. The <strong>Iris reticulate</strong> does best in a well drained bed containing coarse sand or grit. <br /><br />When caring for an Iris reticulate, it is important not to over water the plant, since this can cause severe damage to the bulb. This plant comes in a wide variety of colors, ranging from a pale amethyst to a deep, dark purple. In addition, the <strong>Iris reticulate</strong> has been thoroughly hybridized, and a wide variety of hybrid colors, including solids, speckles, stripes and splotches are available as well.<br /><br />In addition to these somewhat common early spring blooms, there are rarer varieties as well. One of the rarest of late winter and early spring bulbs is the Adonis vernalis. The <strong>Adonis</strong> appears to be a delicate plant, but it is able to make its way through the snows of late winter to provide a beautiful bloom in March. The Adonis has a beautiful yellow bloom, and it makes a wonderful companion to any landscape. The <strong>Adonis</strong> can be used anywhere, but it makes a particularly good addition to a <strong>winter rock garden</strong>.<br /><br />No matter which types of late winter or early spring blooming flowers you choose, you will be rewarded with beautiful color in your garden as the last days of winter give way to the first days of spring.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1138520390609798472006-01-29T02:32:00.000-05:002006-01-29T02:39:50.780-05:00Choosing roses for your landscape<strong>Easy tips for how to learn rose gardening</strong><br /><br />Roses have long been a favorite among all types of gardeners, and roses continue to enjoy great popularity today. In addition to their beauty as cut flowers and in bouquets, roses are among the most useful and attractive flowers to grace the landscape of any home.<br /><br />As a matter of fact, the exterior of any home can be made more graceful and more inviting through the use of wonderful landscape roses. Choosing the right ones, and ensuring that they compliment the overall style of the home, is very important to the overall success of the landscape.<br /><br />Fortunately, the number of ornamental landscape roses make finding them an easy task. The difficulty consists of choosing the right ones from this variety. There are a number of classes of roses whose characteristics make them great for use as landscape ornamentals. For instance, the gardener who wants to grow roses up and over an archway or a trellis may want to use tall growing tea roses. Tea roses are renowned for their nodding blooms, therefore all who pass under the arch would be treated to the beautiful sight of roses in full bloom.<br /><br />To accent a wall or other permanent structure, a true climbing rose is often the best choice. True climbing roses can be trained to many different effects, including climbing up the length of the structure, or accenting the tops and sides of a wall or building.<br /><br />The Polyantha or modern day Floribunda rose is a great choice for gardeners looking for a vibrant splash of color for the background. These popular varieties of roses have large sprays of blooms, and they are popular choices for providing color in the landscape. <br /><br />If roses are to be planted in front of other plants in the landscape, miniature or low growing China roses are a perfect choice. Roses can even be used as hedges, with modern Shrub roses and Rugosa roses being excellent choices.<br /><br />Of course, as with any aspect of gardening, color is an important consideration. After all, every gardener’s goal is a garden full of colorful, vibrant and healthy plants. Fortunately, roses come in so many shapes, sizes, textures and colors that there truly is a rose for every gardener. <br /><br />The goal of choosing the best color roses for the landscape should be to compliment the color of the surrounding landscape. For instance, a spray of plain white tea roses can be striking against a dark red brick home, or an arrangement of pink roses can be the perfect compliment to a stone or marble entranceway. With so many colors of roses to choose from, it should be easy to find colors that compliment and enhance any decorating scheme.<br /><br />One popular trend in the world of <a href="http://www.flowers-and-garden.com/landscaping-ideas-articles.php">landscaping</a> is to use a variety of different plants and flowers in the landscape. Whereas single species landscaping was in vogue a few years ago, most of today's gardeners like to use a mix of different colors, species and styles of plants. Doing so not only makes for a vibrant garden, but it is thought to enhance the health of the soil as well.<br /><br />Fortunately, roses lend themselves well to this mixture, and roses can be a beautiful part of an overall landscape of plants and flowers. In addition, there are roses suitable for a variety of climates. Choosing the best rose varieties for your specific climate should mean fewer pesticides, few disease issues and an overall healthier garden.<br /><br /><div align="center"><a href="http://tinyurl.com/8tea6" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://tinyurl.com/apl3x" border=0></a></div>bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1138453114061747242006-01-28T07:54:00.000-05:002006-01-28T08:00:35.070-05:00How to Decipher Zone Rules when Planting RosesYou're thinking about planting roses for your garden or to decorate outside around your house. If you want to spruce things up a bit, but are not too sure how to go about it, and then read about a few tips that will guide you on your journey of rose planting. It's not that hard to do, you just need to be aware of how to use a map and a few other tips to grow beautiful roses.<br /><br />The map is meant to be used as a general guideline that you'll need to seriously consider before planting any roses outside in your garden or around the yard. However, don’t be confused or fooled, some roses do well in many different kinds of climate. The best knowledge for learning how to locally grow roses in your area is to talk with others in your hometown, such as your plant and gardening center or a florist. A good reading of any quality book on how to grow roses can be found at the library or a bookstore. <br /><br />A little history about how maps came into use for roses is necessary to be a fully informed Rosarian! <br /><br />The first map ever created for information on plantings was the USDA Hardiness Zone Map, and it came from the combined effort of Henry Skinner in the 1800s when he worked with the US National Arboretum, and the American Horticultural Society which produced the valuable map of information on the climates in the US. It was a generalized map of meteorological information broken into zones of large areas for the US. It was the first time people had some type of guideline to go by for planting and growing, not only decorative plantings, but crop information as well. This was necessary because many people were on the move throughout the country, and many didn’t know the local areas growing capabilities.<br /><br />Later in 1960 the map was revised and was named the Plant Hardiness Zone Map with more detailed information, and included all of North America. A few reasons for changing the map were that there was more technological ability to map weather trends, as well as data. Also, the weather patterns were changing too. More detailed information such as the names of plants and their cold climate zones, along with an alphabetized listing of plant names were included.<br /><br />Here is how the map is broken out into zones for the US.<br /><br /><strong>South West</strong> - AZ, CA, NV, UT<br /><br /><strong>South Mid-West</strong> - AR, KS, CO, IL, LA, MS, MO, NM, OK, TX <br /><br /><strong>South East</strong> - AL, FL, GA, MA, NC, SC, CO, TN<br /><br /><strong>North West</strong> - OR, ID, MT, WA, WY<br /><br /><strong>North Mid-West</strong> - IA, MN, NE, ND, SD, WI, WY<br /><br /><strong>North East</strong> - CT, DE, IL, IN, KY, ME, MD, MA, MI, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, VA, WV<br /><br /><strong>Alaska</strong> - Listed separately but in the North Mid-West<br /><br /><strong>Hawaii</strong> - Hawaii Is not listed in any category of the US geographic regions<br /><br />The major areas are further broken out into sub areas of temperatures. Starting with zone 1 which is the coldest area of -50 degrees F and graduating up to 11 which are the warmer areas of the US. Areas of the regional zone is further broken out into sub zones of temperatures represented by a combination of numerical and alphabetized designations such as 2a, 2b, and 3a, 3b, and continuing on. Zone 11 is the area where annual local temperature is continually over 40 degrees F. <br /><br />Like the unfamiliar settlers before, you’ll need to know the map. There are places on the internet where you can order one and print it out to use as a guideline for growing your roses. Remember to stay updated on any changes to the map.<br /><br />With your handy map in hand, go and speak to people in the know about growing roses in your area. The map is helpful, but it’s only a general guideline. Different things concerning your local climate can affect how roses grow in your garden or around your house. Professional horticulturists use them and they are termed micro climates. Situations such as how much smog or pollution conditions, soil feasibility, or even any catastrophic conditions such as the eruption of a volcano, or a man made problems of pesticides can affect how or if your roses grow.<br /><br />Take the time and understand the map, and use any information you can find in books, or from a gardening or floral provider. Also, use the advice of locals for growing your healthy beautiful roses. Most of all enjoy the adventure; it’s a sweet smelling one.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1137915367225553612006-01-22T02:30:00.000-05:002006-01-22T02:36:07.446-05:00The 2006 Perennial Plant of the Year<strong>'Firewitch' brings beauty, fragrance to your garden</strong><br /><br />'Firewitch' (Dianthus gratianopolitanus) gets the recognition because of its long-lasting, fragrant, magenta flowers and the blue-green foliage, which is evergreen.<br /><br />Dianthus is a large group of plants, which can be annuals (such as the Parfait series or 'Corona Cherry'), biennials (sweet William) and perennials. Probably the most well-known dianthus is the carnation, a weak-stemmed perennial.<br /><br />If there's a common trait across the species, it's fragrance. Another attractive trait for many dianthus is blue-green foliage that is very cold-tolerant or evergreen.<br /><br /><strong>'Firewitch'</strong> is in the "pinks" category of dianthus, which is sometimes called Cheddar pinks. Cheddar is an area of England where this dianthus comes from, and pinks refers to the flowers, which look like they've been trimmed with pinking shears.<br /><br /><strong>'Firewitch'</strong> blooms for six to eight weeks in spring and early summer, making it a good companion for late-blooming spring bulbs. After each flush of flowers, cut off dead blooms and the plant will likely rebloom throughout summer. The plant looks good through winter with its beautiful, blue-green, mat foliage.<br /><br />Dianthus does best in full sun and loose, well-drained soil. It can go more on the dry side; wet soil may cause the plant to rot. 'Firewitch' gets about 8 inches tall with a 12- to 15-inch spread. Be prepared, though, because it may spread even wider.<br /><br /><strong>'Bath's Pink'</strong>, which is similar to <strong>'Firewitch'</strong>, easily spreads to 30 inches.<br />Once established, fertilizer usually isn't necessary. Dusting the soil or ringing the plants with compost in fall or spring is about all that's needed.<br />'Firewitch' is easy to divide. Just chop off a clump and transplant. Although it's always recommended to prepare the soil for transplants, I've had dianthus take hold when just placed on the soil.<br /><br />Dianthus shines in the front of the bed, in rock gardens and in troubling spots. It can take a footstep or two, but not high traffic. <a href="http://www.indystar.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20060121/LIVING02/601210337/1084/LIVING02">Source</a> of the article.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1137854455323334102006-01-21T09:37:00.000-05:002006-01-21T09:41:01.656-05:00How to save plants from saltSome de-icers aren't so harsh and may work as well. Try to apply them before the storm.<br /><br />In this season, when ice and snow are likely, pause to think of the flowers of spring. Plants that live near streets and curbs, even turf grass, are in jeopardy from ice-melting chemicals that have become the other "white stuff" of the winter landscape.<br /><br />Plants are damaged in two ways by the chemicals: Salt-laced slush burns evergreen foliage and latent buds. Moreover, salt in the soil can prevent roots from absorbing water and nutrients and affects the long-term health of both evergreen and deciduous plants, including ground covers, spring bulbs, and lawns.<br /><br />Symptoms include distorted and stunted growth, branch dieback, lack of flowering, and leaves with browned margins. Salt contamination also can cause stress that invites diseases and pests - assuming the afflicted plants live.<br /><br />David Yost, a plant specialist at Merrifield Garden Center in Virginia, remembers seeing a hedge of yews killed outright by a salt-contaminated snow pile in the corner of a parking lot.<br /><br />"Roots and all," he said.<br /><br />Fortunately, paths can be cleared without maiming your landscape, using alternative products and some care. More than your plants are at stake: Excessive salting poses a risk to pets, damages masonry and vehicles, and pollutes water.<br />The most damaging thawing agent - rock salt, or sodium chloride - is also the cheapest and most readily available. Protecting your landscape may mean having to shop around to find something else. Read the <a href="http://www.philly.com/mld/inquirer/living/home/design/13666627.htm">full article...</a>bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1137055745221006432006-01-12T03:42:00.000-05:002006-01-12T03:49:05.340-05:00When to Perform Rose PropagationAs a novice <b>rose gardener</b>, you might have heard the term <strong>rose propagation</strong>, but not really known what was meant by the term. Propagation is the term used for reproduction in the plant world and you can propagate roses by either seed or by taking a cutting from your current rose plant. <br /><br />Rose propagation has a long and rich history. Little has changed in terms of rose propagation since the early 1800’s when American settlers carried stems with them into the west. You might even remember your mother or grandmother sticking a cane from a rose in the ground and covering it with a plastic jar to make it grow. <br /><br />Using a cutting is a much more common method. Commercial growers and horticulturalists do grow new rose's bushes from seeds, but with a seed you are not guaranteed an exact replica of your original rose bush. The pollen that was used to fertilize the flower might not actually come from that flower so the seeds may be a mix of two plants. With a cutting taken right from your rose bush, you are guaranteed an exact copy of the original.<br /><br />Rose propagation is quite simple really. All you need to do is ensure that you give the new cuttings a safe, moist and humid environment so the roots have time to develop. It is natural for any part of the plant to try to establish its own root system so it can stay alive, but it is only through your help that this can happen at all.<br /><br />The best time to propagate is in the spring. At this point in the year the weather is cool and the plants are particularly vigorous after a long winter's slumber. <br /><br />When selecting a shoot, you should aim for a young one. Older stems will not grow as well as young, tender ones. You want to select a cane that does not have a bud on it yet. With a sharp knife, you want to cut off a piece of the shoot that is approximately half a foot long. You want to remove the leaves at the bottom of the cane, but leave the ones near the top. These leaves will provide the necessary food and hormones while the roots establish themselves. Clear an area of your garden free of weeds and other plants and then plant the shoot in a couple of inches of soil. It is best to plant the shoot in the area that you want your new rose bush to be to save the stress of transplanting. Before you place the cutting in the hole, you can lightly score one side and dip it in compost. This will encourage root growth.<br /><br />Be sure to water the shoot and then cover it with some kind of plastic or glass container – this will keep the temperature high and retain moisture so that the shoots will grow better. You do need to think about which container will work best. You want your new cutting to be exposed to sunlight, but you need to make sure that there is not too much sun shining directly on the new cutting because it can become overheated. You might plant your cutting in an area where there is partial shade to avoid this kind of problem. <br /><br />You should check your shoot often, ensuring that it is moist enough. If the ground is dry, then you need to water. You can remove the glass or plastic container if temperatures reach at least 75 degrees, but be sure to re-cover the plant at night when the temperature drops back down.<br /><br />Don't expect to see results right away. On the surface the plant may appear dormant, but all of the activity is happening below the surface at this point. Your new rose bush needs time to develop roots to support it. You should see some growth after two or three weeks.<br /><br />It's important that you’re not discouraged if at first you don't succeed – just try again. Many inexperienced growers can have difficulty <strong>propagating</strong>. Though the success rate for new cuttings is very low, you can improve your odds by planting several cuttings at a time. If by chance they all develop, you can transplant the some of the clippings or offer them to some other garden enthusiasts you know.<br /><br />And just keep this in mind: though many gardeners practice propagation, it is against the law to reproduce a hybrid plant that has been patented.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1136809297752015652006-01-09T07:17:00.000-05:002006-01-09T07:21:37.976-05:00What's in, what's out in gardens and yards for 2006Higher fuel costs are expected to drive these 2006 trends, as more of us stay closer to home on weekends and for vacations, according to industry experts. Also, laptop computers let us work wherever we choose, even while we catch a few rays of sunshine.<br /><br />"Our back yards and patios now serve as playgrounds, living rooms, kitchens, home offices and havens," says Susan McCoy, president of the Garden Media Group, which annually tracks gardening trends. <br /><br />"The walls of the home seem to have come tumbling down and now the homeowner's focus is on decorating the outside of the home on the deck, the patio and all around their property."<br /><br />Now, before you say, "I don't want to take care of a big yard and a lot of flowers," you should read on and realize that getting outdoors isn't about pushing the lawn mower all morning and weeding the flower beds all afternoon.<br /><br />Gardening is about getting smarter with your choices and chores. Shop for "self-cleaning" plants that don't need fading flowers removed, and think twice about maintaining a lot of grass.<br /><br />"The trend is toward less square footage in lawns and more mixed beds that are easier to maintain," says Les Parks, nursery manager at Smithfield Gardens in Suffolk, Va.<br /><br />And, if big trees are not your thing because you have a small yard or worry about a hurricane toppling them, take comfort in knowing that shrubs are replacing trees in space-challenged yards. <br /><br />"We are definitely seeing gardening trends leaning toward small spaces, including vertical gardening," says Bruce Barton at The Flower Pot in Yorktown, Va. "Lots of climbers, vines and trellis shapes." <br /><br />So, sit back and daydream about spring, sketch out some ideas for an easy-do look in your yard and take note of what's in, what's out for living the good life:<br /><br />Create a lived-in garden. Showplace gardens are fine for picture books, but not for real-life living. To kick back at home, put up an entertainment tent or gazebo, fire up the grill and pipe the music outdoors. You may even want to hook up your flat-screen TV outdoors in some location where it's protected from the weather. "I know a man who takes his flat-screen TV outside, plugs it in and watches football in the hot tub," says McCoy.<br /><br />You'll also read more about "outdoor bedrooms" joining the likes of outdoor kitchens and living rooms, letting you stay past dark and watch the stars twinkle overhead.<br /><br />Realize less is still more. Minimalism continues to be trendy indoors and outdoors. Skip buying every knickknack you see, and, instead, concentrate on a few quality eye-catching items. In other words, resist the plastic and look for fashionable materials in pots and sculpture, including ceramic, terracotta, finished concrete, marble and even bronze. In the end, you have simple elegance without the fussy look of clutter.<br /><br />Get boom without bloom. If your lot is the size of a postage stamp, you can still pack a lot of power into your garden. Avoid using just flowers to give you pizzazz. Look for double-duty plants, meaning shrubs, perennials and groundcovers that feature variegated, puckered and fine-textured foliage before and after the bloom time, says Parks. One example is PeeDee Gold Ingot liriope, a groundcover that emerges yellow in spring and matures to a deep gold and produces the traditional purple-spiked flowers. Sun Goddess hydrangea with its golden foliage and pink flowers is a wonderful double-duty shrub.<br /><br />Try "pot-scaping." The one-dimensional look of containers lined or clustered along the deck or patio moves into "pot-scaping" for the entire landscape. Pots of plants are showing up in beds and borders, or standing alone like an eye-catching exclamation point. Busy homeowners find decorating their yard with "spots of pots" is an easy way to splash color throughout the yard. Try tucking a few pots of colorful annuals and tropicals among evergreens and you'll love the look. Small trees and shrubs, as well as annuals and perennials, thrive in pots as long as the containers are suitable in size and offer good drainage.<br /><br />But, take care when creating your pots. "Plants in too many colors and textures look as tasteless as wearing plaids, stripes and prints together," says Elvin McDonald, garden editor at Better Homes & Gardens. Plant several of one variety per container, or several different varieties, all in one color family, per pot. Then, group the colorful containers together for an avalanche of color.<br /><br />... read the full <a href="http://www.tmcnet.com/usubmit/2006/jan/1268955.htm" target="_blank">article</a>bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9852778.post-1136708126835367472006-01-08T03:12:00.000-05:002006-01-08T03:15:31.613-05:00Garden resolutions: Start the growing year rightBy Kathy Jentz<br /> <br />It's a new year and a brand-new start, not just for yourself, but for your garden as well. A new growing season is on the horizon and now is the best time possible to take a good luck at improving your garden.<br /><br />Here are 10 resolutions you can make to give a boost to your gardening skills, increase your enjoyment of this wonderful hobby and make less work for yourself in the coming year.<br /><br /><strong>1.</strong> Take a class. Whether you are an overzealous pruner or a negligent fertilizer, there is a class to help you reform your ways. There are a number of free and inexpensive garden seminars being offered in the D.C. area. Check with your local garden center, botanic gardens and historic homes for their upcoming session listings. Some of my favorites are offered by Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, the U.S. National Arboretum in Washington and Green Spring Gardens in Fairfax.<br /><br /> <br /><strong>2.</strong> Join a local garden club or plant society. The key is learning from other's experiences. Local garden clubs are full of veteran gardeners who love to share their plant knowledge with fellow members. Many host expert speakers and have a wide range of other activities from plant exchanges to tours of historic gardens. Plant societies are clubs that specialize in one plant variety such as orchids or dahlias. If you are crazy about one particular plant type, then this is the place for you to find fellow enthusiasts. Garden clubs and plant societies are easily found through a Google search and list their events in local newspaper calendars. Most meetings are free to the general public and all welcome newcomers.<br /><br /><strong>3.</strong> Read. Visit your local library and bookstore for beautiful gardening books filled with photographs and diagrams. Every avid gardener spends their winter months reading about and dreaming of spring gardens. A home library full of garden resources will inspire you. Also, subscribe to a few garden magazines that are chock full of timely articles. Washington Gardener magazine is the publication for the greater D.C. region, but other excellent magazines include Horticulture, Gardening How-To and Fine Gardening.<br /><br /><strong>4.</strong> Journal. You know that pile of plant tags, seed packs and clipped articles from garden magazine that just kept growing larger all last spring through fall? Now is the time to get it organized in your garden journal. Take an evening or two to staple them to pages and pop in a three-ring binder. Make notes as to what was planted where, what worked, what didn't and what something new you would like to try.<br /><br /><strong>5.</strong> Take photos. Did you get a digital camera for Christmas? Pull it out of the box and put it to great use this year by taking photos of your yard from various vantage points. Repeat this monthly. Print out and store in your journal. Or just buy a disposable film camera each month and put the developed photos in a "garden album." You'll be amazed at the differences as you flip back through each month and be able to clearly see next winter what seasons are lacking color and interest in your garden.<br /><br /><strong>6.</strong> Plan. Get out a pencil and paper and start sketching ideas for a new front border, additional flower beds or a water feature. Think about the kinds of gardens you've visited. Which ones have made you sigh with envy? What styles have you've always admired? Dream big!<br /><br /><strong>7.</strong> Get organized. Just as your basement, closets and attic could use a spring cleaning, your garden shed could use the same. Start by taking inventory of your tools, pots, seed packs, etc. What are you missing? What do you have too much of? Maybe you can trade items with fellow garden club members. I recently did a major shed clean-out and was surprised to find I had more than 200 plastic starter pots accumulated from plant purchases! Those will be donated to a grower at my local farmer's market.<br /><br /><strong>8.</strong> Share. Make it a point to introduce at least one other person to gardening this year. Surely you have a neighbor, relative, co-worker or friend who has admired your garden. Let them in on a few of your "secrets." Share seeds, tools and maybe even some of your vegetable plot to get them started. A few years from now they may come back with a bounty to share with you.<br /><br /><strong>9.</strong> Bring the garden indoors and the comforts of the indoors out. Look at ways to enjoy your garden year-round. Even in the D.C. climate, you can garden in the depths of winter by forcing bulbs or starting seedlings. In the height of the growing season, don't just use the outdoors as a workplace. Set up spaces for you to stop, relax and enjoy the fruits of your hard labors.<br /><br /><strong>10.</strong> Expand your garden interests. Go outside your comfort zone and widen your garden universe this year. If you always plant edibles, add some flowers. If you only do flowers, add in some edibles. Are you too afraid to grow "fussy" orchids or roses? Give one a try this year. I've personally never been taken with rock or alpine gardens, but I'm going to give one a try this spring. You never know what doors you may open when you go into new areas. Discover your next garden passion.<br /><br />Kathy is editor of Washington Gardener magazine (<a href="http://www.WashingtonGardener.com">www.WashingtonGardener.com</a>) and a longtime D.C.-area gardening enthusiast. E-mail editor@washingtongardener.com.bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12709868257661920530noreply@blogger.com